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Basic Landscape Tree Planting Guide

Category: Agriculture >> Planting/Harvesting
Ecoregions:Eco-313, Eco-325, Eco-315,

Fri Nov 17 2023

This resource is meant to help guide us through the process of selecting a site and species of tree to plant, the actual process of planting a tree, and the maintenance needed for a tree after planting. It is targeted towards people who are planting a small number of trees in their yard or an urban environment. And while I know that the process for site selection, species selection, and digging holes is pretty universal, I have included some information about establishment periods and maintenance schedules that will vary by region, which is why I have limited this guide to the chosen ecoregions.

This guide does not cover every detail in depth, but if these basic guidelines are followed we can greatly increase the health and longevity of our trees.

Things To Consider Before Planting

Species Selection

  • Mature size above and below ground: This is the most common problem I see, trees planted in places that they don’t fit into. The mature height and spread of the tree must be considered. That Oak sapling may be 5 feet tall now, but remember, in the future it may be 100 feet tall by 100 feet wide, and keeping a tree to a size and shape it doesn't want to be is A LOT of work. You must also consider the amount of soil available to that tree once mature. One reason(of many) trees planted in parking lots and sidewalks have short lifespans is because they don't have enough soil to provide the nutrients they need to flourish. Remember that trees can take up as much space below ground as they do above ground.
  • Native environment: We should make sure that our selected species can tolerate the local environment. At a minimum this means we should think about the temperature ranges that our selected species can handle. But we may also want to consider rainfall, pests and diseases, etc.
  • Function: Planting a tree with a goal in mind can be very beneficial to the success of the tree. Reasons for planting can range from shade or windbreak to wildlife or beauty and many things in between. A species should be chosen that excels in accomplishing this goal. This also ties into the growth form of the tree. For example, if you want a year round visual screen choose upright dense evergreens. If you want a large sprawling tree that is good for wildlife and provides a dense canopy choose an oak tree. Don’t try to force an oak to do the job of a spruce.
  • Maintenance: We should be realistic about how much time and money we would like to put into maintaining our trees. Some trees, once established, won’t need any further maintenance(especially with proper site and species selection). Others may need more frequent pruning or drop seeds and leaves that will need to be cleaned up. Certain species are also far more prone to pests and diseases than other species or may produce pollen that affects our health. (Gilman, 2015)

Site Selection

  • Structures above and below ground: This ties into the point above about mature species size. Buildings, fences, signs and other trees are some of the most common structures to consider when deciding where to plant a tree and how they will be impacted by the tree at full size. If planting beneath wires or other structures choose trees with a small enough mature height. If signs or fences are nearby choose a species that will grow above the structure at maturity so as to not interfere with the structure. If planting large deciduous trees, plant 20-40 feet away from a building to receive the benefit of solar gains. Below ground utilities such as wires and pipes should be considered as well.
  • Soil: The soil is perhaps the most complex and important aspect of tree planting. It is also the most difficult to analyze. Trees have soil types that they prefer and matching soil type to their preference can lead to a much healthier tree. Choosing a species that can handle a wide variety of soil types can make things easier though. Getting a rough idea of soil drainage(whether the soil holds a lot of water or not) and soil texture(clay or sand or somewhere in between) is not too difficult. Drainage can be roughly determined just by observing the planting site and seeing if it tends to hold water more or less than other areas. Soil texture will also give insight into drainage(clay holds more water, sand less). Digging up a small bit of soil from your site will go a long way in determining texture. Clay soil will hold together much more and may even stick to your hands, while sandy soil will be very loose and may run through your fingers. Most likely it will be somewhere in-between. We won't be discussing it here, but If you want to really dig in, there are more advanced ways to test your soil for drainage, texture, and PH.
  • Light exposure: Specific tree species like a certain amount of light. Full sun is considered over 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Partial sun/shade is considered 3-6 hours of sun a day. Anything below 3 hours a day is considered full shade. Match your light exposure at the site to the selected species if possible. (Gilman, 2015)

Planting

Trees can be planted during anytime throughout the growing season but certain times are better than others. Early fall or early spring are considered the best times to plant. During the summer a tree is using a lot of energy for growth, adding the stress of planting to other possible summer stresses such as heat or drought can cause a depletion of a tree’s energy reserves. (Purcell, 2016)

Steps

  1. Move the tree to the planting location preferably by the root ball, not the trunk.
  2. If the root ball is in a synthetic container completely remove the container. Natural burlap or wire cages should be removed if possible as well, but at a minimum remove them from the top and sides of the root ball. If the tree is bare root then make sure your hole is deep enough so the roots aren't circling the hole. You may also want to make a central mound of dirt in the hole for the bare roots to sit on.
  3. Locate where the roots begin to flare at the base of the trunk. This may not always be visible but where the topside of the topmost root forks from the trunk can be considered the root flare. Excess dirt should be removed from the root ball if necessary so the root flare is visible.
  4. Dig a hole so that root flare is at or above grade. A hole too shallow is better than a hole too deep. Having the root flare 1”- 3” above grade is acceptable.
  5. Dig the hole 2–3 times wider than the root ball. 3 is better in compacted or poorly drained soil. Slope the sides of the hole and loosen the edges, especially in compacted and clay soils.
  6. Remove any roots that are circling or girdling the stem. These can be removed with hand pruners or shaved off with a shovel.
  7. Place the tree in the hole and pack soil loosely around the root ball to stabilize the tree.
  8. Loosen the back-fill soil as much as possible beforehand and lightly pack the soil as you are filling the hole. Once back-filled the root flare should be at or above grade.
  9. Apply roughly 10 gallons of water to settle the soil in the hole.
  10. apply 2-3 inches of mulch around the tree, up to 8 feet in diameter. Cover the sides of the root ball with mulch if visible, but do not cover the top of the root ball.
  11. A berm can be created around the root ball for irrigation if necessary, preferably out of mulch but soil is okay too.
  12. In most cases staking should not be necessary, but if it is it should be removed after 1 year. (Gilman, 2015)
diagram of tree planting on flat terrain
diagram of tree planting on sloped terrain

Establishment

Planting is a very stressful process for a tree and it requires a certain amount of time for the tree to recover and thrive. Trunk and stem growth slows down after transplanting. Once growth is consistent from year to year, a tree is considered established and in the proper climate can survive on its own (Gilman, 2015).

Approximate Time to Establishment Based on Trunk Diameter

  • <1 inch - 8 months
  • 1-2 inches - 16 months
  • 2-3 inches - 24 months
  • >4 inches - 32 months (Gilman, 2015)

It is only necessary to water a tree during the growing season. If a tree is planted in the spring or summer it should be watered until the leaves turn color in the fall. If it is planted in the fall it should be watered until the leaves have mostly fallen off or completely died.

Watering Schedule for Tree Vigor or Survival Based on Trunk Diameter

Vigor

  • <2 inches - every other day for 2 months. After, weekly until establishment
  • 2-4 inches - every other day for 3 months. After, weekly until establishment
  • >4 inches - every other day for 5 months. After, weekly until establishment

Survival

  • <2 inches - twice weekly for 2-3 months
  • 2-4 inches - twice weekly for 3-4 months
  • >4 inches - twice weekly for 4-5 months (Gilman & Sadowski, 2015)

Now I know this all may seem excessive. We have all probably put a tree in the ground by any means necessary, never touched it again, and had a perfectly healthy tree grow. Trees are very resilient! But if we really care, why not show 'em some love.

References

Gilman, E. (2015). Landscape Plants - Edward F. Gilman - UF/IFAS. Retrieved October 27, 2020, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/index.shtml

Gilman, E., & Sadowski, L. (2007). Choosing suitable trees for urban and suburban sites: Site evaluation and species selection. Retrieved October 21, 2020, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/documents/EP310.pdf

Gilman, E., & Sadowski, L. (2007). Planting and establishing trees. Retrieved October 21, 2020, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/documents/EP314.pdf

Purcell, L. (2016). Tree Installation: Process and Practices. Retrieved October 21, 2020, from https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-433-W.pdf


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